Killer B Ultimate Oil Pick-Up Tube, Baffle, and Pan install on a 2011 Subaru WRX - by EFI Logics
(directions should be close for all other ’02-’12 Subaru models)
1. Get the car in the air – either on a lift, on ramps, or jack stands.
2. Remove the underbody panel as if you were doing a regular oil change.
3. Take a look at the pan and your surroundings before diving in. Then, drain the oil.
4. Go back above and remove the bolt holding the dipstick tube to the head.
5. Go back under the car and loosen both engine mount bolts from the sub frame.
6. Lift the engine up so the engine mounts come out of the sub frame. Since we will be removing the oil pan anyway, the best place to jack it up is from the header. However, keep in mind that some aftermarket headers will need to be removed to get the pan out and in.
7. Once the engine mounts are removed from the sub frame, you can put in nuts with one flat end upside-down on the mounts to re-lower the engine back onto the sub frame to keep some clearance. This will help especially on those who need to remove their headers in order to make the pan switch.
8. Once the engine is down and safe to work under, start removing the bolts that hold the stock pan to the engine. Most of these can be removed with a straight socket and extension; the rear bolts will need a universal connector.
9. Once the bolts are removed, you will still need to separate the pan from the engine, which is being held on by sealant. We started off with a putty knife to break the seal a bit, then you can take a flat head screw driver or small pry bar to *gently* separate the pan from the engine. Be careful not to damage either the sealing surface on the engine block or damage the pan (especially if you are not installing the Killer B pan with the pick-up tube).
10. Make sure to remove the dip stick tube from the pan. This should come out fairly easily if you remembered to remove the bolt above earlier. Once the sealant has been broken apart on all edges, remove the factory oil pan.
11. Clean the sealing surface on the block. This will need to be done on the oil pan as well if you are reusing the factory oil pan. The best way to do this is to take a flat razor blade and skim the edge at a 90 degree angle, which removes the sealant but does not risk damaging the sealing surface. Once clean of large clusters of sealant, take a piece of Scotch Brite to the sealing surface to remove any left over from the razor.
12. Next, remove the bolts holding in the stock oil baffle and pick-up tube. Removing these will drop more oil, so be careful to not be right underneath when they are removed. Clean up the mess and keep going!
13. Make sure to remove the stock o-ring for the oil pick-up tube if it didn’t come off with the tube. This will be replaced with the o-ring that Killer B supplies.
14. Next, the final cleaning of the block with some parts cleaner – make sure to spray onto a clean rag then use the rag to clean, rather than spraying directly up at the engine. Not only can this be harmful to your eyes (use protection!), but you could potentially spray the crank bearings.
Nice and clean…
15. In the box from Killer B, we have the pan, pick-up tube, baffle, spacers for the pick-up tube, hardware, and instructions. Make sure you have everything before attempting the install.
16. Begin installing the new parts – we started with the o-rings on the dip stick tube and the baffle (using Killer B’s supplied hardware and two bolts are reused from factory piece).
17. Then in goes the pick-up tube with the supplied hardware and o-rings. Double-check to make sure all of these bolts are properly tightened up.
18. Because this car has the factory exhaust manifolds, all we had to do to get the oil pan into place was remove the left (US driver) side heat shield. This allowed for enough clearance to get the pan in. Again, for some aftermarket headers, you may need to remove them for this. We do also bring the jack back in for some extra clearance – if you had to remove the headers, you will just need to keep the nuts on the engine mounts and live with less space. Clean up the oil pan just as you did with the engine block and make sure you TEST FIT!
19. Next, take some sealant (we use Subaru 3-bond) and apply to the oil pan surface, making sure to get around all bolt holes and not to put on too little or too much.
20. Next, carefully place the oil pan into place – remember how this was done during the test fitting to keep from removing sealant from the oil pan surface on the way in. Press firmly when in place and get a few of the bolts in on different sides of the pan to keep it from falling.
21. Keep screwing in the supplied bolts with an Allen socket around the pan. For the rear most bolts, these will be difficult, especially if you cannot jack up on the headers – but use the universal attachment to make sure these are snug.
22. When the pan is on, make sure to line up the dip stick tube into the pan. Jack up the engine and remove the nuts from the engine mounts. Lower the engine and make sure the mounts line up into the sub frame. You should then be able to get the dip stick a bit further into the oil pan.
23. Go back up top and push the dipstick tube in the rest of the way. Bolt the tube back down and raise the car back up. Make sure the dipstick went in the rest of the way, then apply some of the sealant used earlier inside, making sure it’s sealed (the o-rings should be sufficient, but we do this regardless). Clean off the excess sealant.
24. If the heat shield was removed from the exhaust manifold, reattach. Put the nuts back on the engine mount studs and tighten down. You can also take a flat head screw driver and cut the rest of the sealant off once it has dried (overnight is best, but a couple hours will work) to clean up the sides of the pan.
25. Remove the oil filter to complete the oil change (or you can reuse the oil if you kept it, but we suggest often oil changes anyway! Prime the new filter and put that back on, then just add the oil. This pan should hold right around 5.5 US quarts of oil, but check the dipstick level to make sure you have the proper level and check again after the first time the engine has warmed up and cooled down. Check for leaks around the pan, and then reattach the underbody splash guard!
26. Enjoy your new Killer B Ultimate Pick-Up Tube, Pan, and Baffle!